Namibia - Destination Everywhere
I am just back from a 10 day drive around the core of Namibia and want to share the latest news from our properties and the surrounding countryside. Starting with the obvious then; the pans are overflowing, the rivers are in flood and parts of the Naukluft Park are looking like Montana. Namibia is literally bathing in some of the best rains on record. The gravel roads have taken a pounding and it is probably wise to add an hour or so to expected drive times unless your clients are using the tar roads. In 10 days, I only reverted to plan B once and that was in the face of a fully flooded Huab River. The alternative route not only took me over the glorious Grootberg Pass but straight into camera range of 15 clay-coated desert elephants. If you are using a 4wd you will have no problems getting around and 2wd’s without the extra ground clearance should check local road conditions prior to heading out. Otherwise the slower driving speeds are a good excuse to enjoy the spectacular scenery en-route.
My first overnight was at Okonjima Bush Camp’s new honeymoon suite (room 9). This room is used at the discretion of the lodge as a free upgrade for honeymooners and repeat or long stay guests. The room offers guests an experience not far off the Bush Suite with inside and outside showers, a serious bathtub, lounge with a fireplace and about an acre of bed. The Hanssen family have had a busy six months with the total renovation and expansion of the Main Camp lounge and dining areas. These were improved to complement the 10 new Mountain View rooms which offer a modern contrast to the original cosy stone rooms dotted around the lawn. Other improvements include the relocation of the guest parking and the addition of a camp waterhole. The end result is both spacious and welcoming.
The icing on the cake was joining a leopard rescue mission with Dave from the AfriCat Foundation. Whilst the guest activities at Okonjima bring you into very close and informative contact with a variety of large carnivores, it was fascinating to witness the daily work of the Foundation. The fact that the leopard in question had killed a calf before being caught in a box trap was testament to the outreach work of the Foundation. Without their ongoing contact with Namibia’s commercial farming community, it is entirely probable that this leopard would have been poisoned or shot as a final solution. Instead, after a variety of checks, measurements and micro-chipping, the 60kg male was released into wild habitat several hundred kilometres away. This open relationship with the broader Namibian public coupled with the education centre at Okonjima which hosts school children is playing a massive part in building interest and acceptance in Africa’s threatened predators.
An easy tar road drive via the Wimpy at Tsumeb took me to the Mushara reserve on the eastern edge of Etosha - the only family run luxury safari business at the Etosha National Park. The Mushara Outpost opened in 2008 and set the tone for flawless attention to detail. Everything from the massive selection of African photographic literature, the interesting local prints on the walls and the exceptionally well stocked curio shop ask to be explored. The immaculate and welcoming staff are also an indication of the pleasure Marc and Mariza Pampe take in running Mushara with their happy team. After spending some time bird watching from the Outposts comfortable hide, we headed off in Marc’s late 50’s model VW camper to visit his next development.
The Mushara Bush Camp which will open in August is destined to provide Etosha with its first genuinely family friendly safari camp. Marc and Mariza have raised their own children at Mushara and want to create an environment at the Bush Camp which welcomes families rather than excludes them. Etosha is a great park for introducing children to the world of game viewing. The Bush Camp will also provide guided walking trails for small safari fans and dedicated children’s 'spaces' for creative activity at the camp itself. The main area is laid out to allow families to find their own space without impacting on guests preferring a quiet fireside drink. The family tents are closest to the main area and comfortably accommodate four people. In the evening, alternate nights will offer dining in the restaurant and also an informal fireside braai in the camp boma.
Etosha itself is always well watered at this time of year but I was amazed at the extent of the water in the pans. Mushara’s head guide Abraham wasn’t phased by the aquatic landscape and quickly tracked down a large breeding herd of elephant despite the fact that many of the herds move further north during the rains. We watched for an hour as they hurled thick clay over themselves before melting back into the bush. The owner of some very fresh rhino tracks stayed hidden but instead we were entertained by a pair of Blackbacked Jackals as they scoured the pans edge for Flamingo eggs. The grand finale to the day was a leopard and her cub padding along beside a perfectly calm inland lake.
The road west from Omaruru turns to graded gravel at Khorixas and the distant mountains of Damaraland beckon you into the realm of the Desert Elephant. An overnight downpour started the Huab River flowing and added a few hundred kilometres to my drive on the way to Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Central Namibia is blessed with bridges across most of the major riverbeds which makes for a straightforward drive to the pretty town of Omaruru. This route is also dotted with colourfully dressed Herero women selling dolls and woodcarvings on the roadside. Arriving at laid back Erongo Wilderness Lodge is always a pleasure as the sandy track climbs into the granite landscape of the Erongo Mountains. The low key approach to guided walks and wildlife discovery has always set this centrally located lodge apart. They have just added brand new Land Rovers to their activities programme for drives to the San rock art site of Paula's Cave and wilderness drives into the surrounding area. The 200,000 hectare wildlife conservancy is also home to 5 black rhino that were recently introduced. 
Skipping Swakopmund to save time, I followed the roads south through Karibib and into the Naukluft Park. This is one of the most beautiful drives in Namibia and after the rains it becomes almost surreal as you traverse a landscape that evolves from steep granite mountains to wide open plains. The slow winding road through the Kuisib Canyon is the gateway to the south as the road then flows out into the rolling scenery beyond. The locally famous fuel station at Solitaire lets you know you have arrived at one of Namibia’s most popular tourist destinations. Desert guides, tourists and global vagrants all mix together to enjoy the superb apple strudel they serve.
From here it is a short drive down to the private NamibRand Reserve and The Wolwedans Collection. There is nowhere else offering access to so much private desert in the country and you need a few days to make the most of it. The full day drives are a good way to start understanding this habitat but the best is to take a walk. The classic dunes around the Lodge and Dunes Camp are pure Namib Desert but for something different I suggest taking a slow walk through the amazing geological formations at Boulders Camp in the southern part of the reserve. This seasons property upgrades include an increased deck space at Private Camp which allows for a spacious dining area separate from the lounge and library. The bathrooms at the Dunes Camp have had a second basin fitted to each, his and hers. The bathrooms at the Lodge are also undergoing a facelift. What hasn’t changed though are the unbelievable views in every direction and the people who welcome you to their home in the Namib.
The drive from Wolwedans to Windhoek is nothing (by Namibian standards). You can leave the desert after breakfast and be in the capital for lunch. My final night was spent at the Olive Grove Garden Suite which opened late last year and is the only true boutique room in Windhoek. The suite is so loaded with features that my single night didn't allow me time to play with half of them. Personal favourites were the plunge pool looking across the olive grove, the James Bond style fireplace, the daily paper delivered by hand and the wide screen TV that works as a PC with permanent free internet connection and regular satellite TV access. This is a good way to prepare yourself for a return to the real world and if that proves too much, try a massage on your private deck instead. The evening flight to Gatwick with Air Namibia leaves plenty of time for a late sleep and a visit to the central mapping department for a browse through their superb ariel image archives – if for some reason that isn’t your scene, then Windhoek has shopping malls galore and several street markets off Independence Avenue.
Despite the obvious problems that the travel industry faces there are certain points that it is hard to dispute when you consider Namibia. The destination delivers above and beyond expectations time and again. The exchange rate is good. The country is user friendly to the extreme as any first-time self-drive tourist will tell you on their return. Namibia has to be one of the safest places in Africa. You can buy biltong practically anywhere...
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